What is Chikankari embroidery? How is authentic Lucknow Chikankari identified?

Chikankari is a delicate hand embroidery technique from Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh — one of India most refined textile crafts and a GI-tagged product. The word "Chikan" is derived from Persian, meaning embroidery.

Key characteristics of authentic Chikankari:

• Done by hand — typically by skilled artisans in Lucknow and surrounding areas
• Uses white thread on white or pastel muslin base — the traditional form
• Over 32 different stitches — each creates different texture: shadow work, jali (open mesh), phanda (raised knot), murri (grain stitch)
• GI-tagged — authentic pieces carry Lucknow Chikankari GI certification

Identifying authentic vs machine embroidery imitation:

• Turn the fabric to the reverse — authentic Chikankari shows the stitching clearly on the back; machine embroidery has locked machine stitches
• Authentic has slight irregularity — no two pieces identical
• Price: authentic Chikankari kurta ₹600–₹8,000+. Machine "Chikankari look" ₹150–₹400.