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What is Aari embroidery? How is it different from regular embroidery?

Aari embroidery (also called Maggam work in South India, or Tambour embroidery internationally) is a technique where embroidery is done using a special hooked needle — the aari needle — which pulls the thread from below the fabric through to the top, creating a chain stitch from the front.

Why it is popular in Indian garments:

  • Extremely fine detail possible — more detailed than regular needle embroidery
  • Ideal for dense, continuous patterns like paisley, florals, and jaal (all-over mesh)
  • Used for zardozi-style work, bead embroidery, and sequin work
  • Faster than traditional hand embroidery for complex designs

Regional names: Aari work (Mumbai/Gujarat), Maggam work (Hyderabad/Andhra), Tilla work (Kashmir), Tambour (French origin term).

In wholesale: Aari work adds ₹200–₹1,000+ per garment depending on area of coverage. Used in bridal lehengas, blouses, shawls, and premium kurtis.

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aari embroidery maggam work chain stitch bridal embroidery zardozi

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